A Most Beguiling Accomplishment

January 10, 1787 Two Busts of women. The Woman dressed in a pink gown wears a demi-négligé cap. This cap has a double ruffle of white blonde lace, in large pleats. Its crown or base, very puffed, is of blue crêpe, with its two ends hanging behind, on the shoulders, in the form of a veil. This crêpe is dotted with violet bouquets. Between the base and the ruffles, there is a wide, figured ribbon with a white satin ground and violet selvages. This Woman's hair is frizzed on the top. A single large curl falls from it on each side on the chest. Behind, the hair hangs à la Conseillère . She has a fichu-chemise  with two collars on her neck, and gold earrings à la Plaquette  in her ears. The other Woman wears a hat à l'Espagnol , in which satin. (1) The crown of this hat is of pink crêpe. This crown is tied with a purple and pink ribbon, forming a large bow in the back whose ends hand very low, and it is surmounted by three white plumes and a rooster aigrette, dyed flame-...

January 10, 1787 No-one can deny that our French Ladies cause their fashions to be adopted by Ladies of nearly all other Kingdoms; however, we must admit that there are restitutions that they make to nearly all. Did they not borrow, at least two years ago, Polonaises , Anglaises , Turques , Chinoises ? Now they borrow Espagnoles . It is true that they return versions that are much better than those they received, and, to be exact, they only borrow the names, and they create the things themselves. When they copy, they correct and embellish. When they imitate, they create. From a too inventive imagination, too fecund to stick slavishly to their models, they borrow, they create. They become, in a word, the masters  of the originators. This talent shines in the modern Spanish hats and cap, as it shined in the robes à la Polonaise , in the English hats, in the Turkish caps, and in the poufs à la Chinoise . The Woman dressed in a pink satin gown wears a hat à l'Espagnole . This hat...

Boston MFA 44.1535 Coiffure à la Rethel-mazarin* Coiffure à la Villers Coiffure à la Veuve de Malabar** Coiffure à la Cleophile * The duchy of Rethel became the duchy of Mazarin in 1663 ** A tragedy by Antoine-Marin Lemierre originally of 1770 Coiffure à la Fleuricourt Coiffure of Venus's cape Coiffure à la Montmédy Coiffure au plaisir des Dames Coiffure of Mlle. Colombe in la Colonie* Coiffure à la belle Saison Coiffure à la Semiramis** Coiffure of Iris's cape ( 1783 ) * Mlle Colombe ( Marie-Theodore Thérèse Ruggieri)  was an actress; the V&A has two prints depicting her as Belinda in the play La Colonie ** An Assyrian queen who gave inspiration for many operas and plays

Boston MFA 44.1534 Coiffure à la Jeannette Coiffure à la Jamaique Coiffure with large Curls with a Hat decorated with flowers Coiffure à l'Enfance Negligé Cap Pouf of a new taste called à la Stradre* Reversed tapet  surmounted by a Pouf with box pleats, pearls, and two Tassels called à la Couronne Coiffure in rolled and hanging Curls surmounted by a Pouf à la Luxembourg * surname, unknown significance Streaked hat à la Pendilvaine* Coiffure with large Curls and a straw Hat Hat à la Grenade  called "the Conquest of Destaing " Hat à l'Anglaise * unknown significance, but used elsewhere in the GdM  so unlikely to be a typo for "Pensilvaine" Cap à la Lyonnaise  seen from the front Spotted hat trimmed with Ribbons, negligent Curls Hérisson  girded with a ribbon, with a Garland of flowers and three curls, called à la Printemps Hérisson  girded with a Ribbon with a diamond pin à la Nizarras (1783)

Boston MFA 44.1530 Coiffure called " à la Lévite ": the front frizzed, with rolled curls all around and four baton-curls behind; loose curls on the side. ( 1781 )

Boston MFA 44.1531 Coiffure of a Lady of quality, done by M. Leonard, Hairdresser to the Queen. ( 1781 )

Boston MFA 44.1529 Coiffure in a straight  toque , a  Coque  protruding over the forehead; four rolled curls forming a crest on the toque  and three rolled curls on each side, going straight from under the ear, continuing in the same way to behind the toque ; loose chignon  tied only in the middle; two curls hanging in back. ( 1781 )

Boston MFA 44.1528 Coiffure called à la Princesse : a low toque in front, the Coque  a little protruding, a frizzed area raised over the whole, edged with a row of little curls in hair roses, separated from the toque by a ribbon bandeau. Three curls on the sides, two hanging baton curls at the height of the loose Chignon. A gauze Pouf  artistically placed at the top of the head; a panache  on the left side of the front, composed of two aigrette plumes, a Heron feather, and a very supple one called a Follette , because it plays with grace. If you want, flowers may be added to this Coiffure, as shown here. ( 1781 )

Boston MFA 44.1527 New coiffure: the front straight, ending in a frizzed  hérisson , the bottom of the Coiffure in the back and on the sides like the coiffure à l'enfance . The whole wrapped with a flower crown. ( 1781 )

[This was typed months ago, but somehow it never got posted. Oops!] Once again, with the help of Lauren of Wearing History , I bring you a something a bit more modern: a discussion of hairstyles from Le Miroir des Modes , 1908. The Greek style has invaded the domain of evening and at-home city toilettes; but it still makes its influence felt on the coiffure, so well that those of the evening overall have become low, with full, waved bandeaux, the Greek knot or chignon rolled softly on the nape. This new type of coiffure necessarily calls for new ornament, thus we see the bandalettes, the ribbon ties, the gold and silver braids, the crowns or foliage complete the classical aspect of our elegant women. To be more fitting in profile and in the whole shape the chignon is placed higher or lower; but the front and sides of the coiffure remain vague, and forming a light halo around the face. For any type of coiffure the hair is generally divided in three parts: the back is attac...

Last weekend I gave you the January fashion plates from my bound 1875 Godey's - this Saturday, in honor of My Vintage Visions 's trip to Gettysburg, as she was looking at hairstyles, I thought I'd share the hair pages from my 1864 Godey's, all through the year. Fig. 1 - Spring coiffure for a young lady.  The hair is waved, brushed over frizettes, and caught into a puff by a fancy side comb.  The back hair is dressed waterfall style. Fig. 2 - Fancy evening coiffure.  The hair is arranged over a cushion in front, and a large bow falls low on the neck at the back.  A bouquet of flowers is placed directly over the forehead. The front hair is divided in three parts, and arranged loosely over frizettes.  The back hair is twined and caught up in two loose loops.  This is one of the newest spring styles. Fig. 5 - The Clarissa coiffure.  The hair is rolled off the face in front, and the ends braided.  The back hair is arranged in a large b...