Showing posts from March, 2015

Galerie des Modes, 38e Cahier, 6e Figure

Boston MFA 44.1531 Coiffure of a Lady of quality, done by M. Leonard, Hairdresser to the Queen. ( 1781 )

Galerie des Modes, 38e Cahier, 4e Figure

Boston MFA 44.1529 Coiffure in a straight  toque , a  Coque  protruding over the forehead; four rolled curls forming a crest on the toque  and three rolled curls on each side, going straight from under the ear, continuing in the same way to behind the toque ; loose chignon  tied only in the middle; two curls hanging in back. ( 1781 )

Galerie des Modes, 38e Cahier, 3e Figure

Boston MFA 44.1528 Coiffure called à la Princesse : a low toque in front, the Coque  a little protruding, a frizzed area raised over the whole, edged with a row of little curls in hair roses, separated from the toque by a ribbon bandeau. Three curls on the sides, two hanging baton curls at the height of the loose Chignon. A gauze Pouf  artistically placed at the top of the head; a panache  on the left side of the front, composed of two aigrette plumes, a Heron feather, and a very supple one called a Follette , because it plays with grace. If you want, flowers may be added to this Coiffure, as shown here. ( 1781 )

The Nightgown (and the Negligee) (HSM #3)

(My version of "stashbusting" - the Historical Sew Monthly challenge for March - means finishing a post that had been languishing in my drafts for some time.) The term "nightgown"/"night gown", as used in the 18th century, is somewhat confusing. J. P. Ryan defines an English nightgown as synonymous to robe à l'anglaise , a fitted gown. The Dictionary of Fashion History defines it as "an unboned, loose dress worn for comfort and usually informally." These definitions are polar opposites! The latter appears to be drawn from period dictionaries, which refer to a man's garment and/or an older usage, based on the examples they use. In reference to women's daily dress rather than nightclothes, the term appears as early as the 17th century: From the  Trial of Ford Lord Grey of Werk, et al. 1682 , published 1712. "Woman of quality, in summer dress", Nicolas Arnoult, 1687; LACMA M.2002.57.67 At this point, women'