The Anglaise Revisited
As I seem to have misplaced a large bag full of fabric, I'm planning to purchase some sale ($5!) linen from Fashion Fabrics Club in order to make my future Rev. War gown. I went back to look at my posts on the polonaise, the levite, etc. to check which cut of dress I might go with, and I remembered that I never really did a post on the anglaise - not looking at fashion plates and everything.
Robe à l'Anglaise de Pekin verd pomme la garniture de gaze unie avec une
guirlande de fleurs, un Pouf de gaze d'Italie bordé de fleurs, le
parfait Contentement Rose, les Souliers Rose, et la rosette blanche. (1778)
Anglaise of green-apple pekin trimmed with solid-colored gauze and a garland of flowers; a pouf of Italian gauze trimmed with flowers; the "perfect contentment" in pink; the slippers in pink and a white rosette.
"Pekin" is a striped plain-woven silk - here, the artist has simply not followed directions. I am not sure what "parfait contentement" refers to here. I have found one source that says the pink rose stands for perfect contentment, but that doesn't make logical sense here. The structure of the sentence makes it look like a perfect contentment is an accessory or trim, like that pink bow on the front of the gown, but that doesn't make much sense either.
Cette Figure est vêtue d'un Lévite taille à l'Anglaise à petits plis au tour de la taille la Coëfure est une Coëfure à l'enfance. (1781)
This figure is dressed in a levite with a waistline like an anglaise, with little pleats around the waist. The coiffure is known as à l'enfance.
Robe à l'Anglaise retroussée pour donner de l'aisance à danser. (1782)
Anglaise, pulled up to give ease in dancing.
Lévite ajuste a queue trainante comme les robes a l'Anglaise Coefure un
grand chapeau rond sur une toque basse du devant une seule boucle à la
face et quatre boucles pendantes sur le Chignon. (1782)
Fitted levite with a train like an anglaise. Coiffure is a large, round hat on a low toque over a single curl on the front and four curls hanging on the chignon.
Just noting that the fashionable anglaise should, apparently, be longer than the petticoat.
Robe à l'Anglaise garnie de Gaze brochée la garniture à plat bordée d'un frisé de Gaze. (1782)
Anglaise trimmed with embroidered/brocaded gauze, the flat-trim bordered in a gauze frill.
Nouvelle robe à l'Anglaise garnie de Gaze et de Blonde, avec une
guirlande de fleurs qui régne au milieu de la garniture, Ceinture de
taffetas blanc dont les bouts sont garnis de blonde, Coëffure à la
Vestale. (1782)
New anglaise trimmed with gauze and blonde lace, with a floral garlande which runs down the middle of the trim; white taffeta belt whose ends are trimmed in blonde lace; hair à la Vestale.
I assume à la Vestale refers to her being hatless with a garland of flowers.
Robe a l'Anglaise manches en amadis la taille serrée d'une ceinture de Levite la juppe montée sur un boufant. (1782)
Anglaise, amadis sleeves, the waist tightened with a Levite belt, the skirt worn over a puff.
Robe de matin à l'Anglaise avec des manches en amadis jupon coupé à
grand volant de mousseline fichu à double garniture. Cette femme est
coëffée d'un chapeau de Vegogne a long poil avec un ruban au tour. (1782)
Morning anglaise with amadis sleeves, short petticoat with a great muslin flounce, double-trimmed fichu. This woman is wearing a Vegogne hat with long [fur?] with a ribbon around it.
"Vegogne" might be a typo of "vergogne", meaning shame or modesty. That furry hat is ... quite something.
Deshabillé à l'Anglaise de tafetas garni à plat d'une bande de gaze
bordeé frisée la Camisolle est faite à basque bordée de même ainsi que
le colet rabattu. la Coëfure un bonet à la paysanne. (1782)
Taffeta anglaise undress, flat-trimmed with a gauze band with a frilled border. The bodice is made à basque, bordered in the same, as well as the folded collar. The coiffure is a peasant bonnet.
Robe vraiment a l'Anglaise, sans garnitures, manches en Pagodes avec des
Amadisses, le devant de la Robe simplement retourné, formant un bord. (1784)
True anglaise, without trim, pagoda sleeves with amadis undersleeves, the front of the gown simply turned back, forming a border.
La fausse boudeuse, en robe à l'Anglaise mouchetée à triple collet et
chapeau à la Caravanne, faisant signe de revenir à l'amant que sa
rigueur apparente avoit contraint de s'éloigner. (1784)
A false boudeuse on a speckled [lit. "flied"] anglaise with a triple collar and a hat à la Caravanne, waving back to her lover whose apparent rigor had forced him to leave.
Boudeuse literally means "sulky"; the root means "to protrude the lip", so perhaps this is a term for a form of bum/hip pad.
Robe à l'Anglaise, Fichu-en-Mantelet, Chapeau de Gaze. (1784)
Anglaise, mantelet fichu, gauze hat.
Robe à l'Anglaise le corpsage lacé par derriere le jupon et retroussé,
les manches d'une couleur differente de la Robe, le tout bordées d'un
ruban de couleur à volonté, tres étroit. (1784)
Anglaise, the bodice with laces on the back and the skirt pulled up, the sleeves a different color than the gown, the whole bordered in a very narrow ribbon of any color.
La Virtuose sensible en robe à l'Anglaise bordée à la Marlbrough et
chapeau au demi-Ballon, ne s'occupant du solo qu'elle exécute que dans
l'attente d'un charmant duo. (1784)
The sensitive, virtuous woman in an anglaise bordered à la Marlborough and a demi-balloon hat, busy performing a solo as she waits for a charming duo.
La constante Solitaire en robe à l'Anglaise avec triple collet chapeau à
la Basile et tablier de mousseline garni: portant sans y songer, sou
joli chien lion, et cherchant à voir de loin un objet plus intéressant
pour son coeur. (1784)
The constant woman, alone, in an anglaise with a triple collar, hat à la Basile, and a trimmed muslin apron: carrying, without thinking, her little lion dog, and seeking to see from afar an object very interesting to her heart.
Robe à l'Anglaise garnie à plis plats bordé d'un frisé de Mousseline,
des tresses et boutons pareilles à la Robe; Chapeau garnie d'une toque
de gaze négligemment ajusté avec un ruban. (1784)
Anglaise trimmed with flat pleats, bordered with a muslin frill, and braids and buttons the same color as the dress; hat trimmed with a gauze toque loosely fitted with a ribbon.
La brillante Lise piquée de l'infidélité que son amant lui a faite,
court éxécuter un projet de vengeance pour le faire revenir à elle; elle
est coeffée d'un chapeau à la Caravanne, robe à l'Anglaise garnie à la
Figaro. (1785)
The brilliant Lise, piqued by her lover's infidelity to her, shortly executes a project of vengeance to return him to her; she is coiffed in a hat à la Caravanne, anglaise trimmed à la Figaro.
After the earlier plate, I believe à la Caravanne refers to the short flounce on the hat's brim.
La blonde Mélite se promenant sur le midi au Palais Royal dans la grande
allée de la foire espérant d'y voir celui que qui a fixé son coeur:
elle est vêtue d'une robe Anglaise, avec un chapeau à la Devonshire. (1786)
The blonde Mélite walks at noon to the Palais Royal in the main avenue of the fair, hoping to see the one she has fixed her heart on there: he is dressed in an anglaise, with a hat à la Devonshire.
La jeune Elvire s'entretenant sur le soir des plaisirs qu elle doit
gouter avec Lindor dans un tête à tête: elle à un chapeau à la
prétention: sa robe est à l'Anglaise, fichu à deux collets froncés et
mantelet de taffetas noir. (1786)
The young Elvire, talking in the evening of the pleasures that she must [take?] with Lindor in conversation: she wears a hat à la prétention, her gown is an anglaise, her fichu has two gathered collars, and her mantelet is black taffeta.
Jeune femme se préservant des mauvaise exhalaisons: elle est vêtue d'une
rodingotte à l'Anglaise et coeffée d'un bonnet à la matineuse. (1787)
Young woman protecting herself from "bad exhalations": she is dressed in a redingote à l'Anglaise and coiffed in a bonnet à la matineuse [early riser].
Anglaise of green-apple pekin trimmed with solid-colored gauze and a garland of flowers; a pouf of Italian gauze trimmed with flowers; the "perfect contentment" in pink; the slippers in pink and a white rosette.
"Pekin" is a striped plain-woven silk - here, the artist has simply not followed directions. I am not sure what "parfait contentement" refers to here. I have found one source that says the pink rose stands for perfect contentment, but that doesn't make logical sense here. The structure of the sentence makes it look like a perfect contentment is an accessory or trim, like that pink bow on the front of the gown, but that doesn't make much sense either.
Cette Figure est vêtue d'un Lévite taille à l'Anglaise à petits plis au tour de la taille la Coëfure est une Coëfure à l'enfance. (1781)
This figure is dressed in a levite with a waistline like an anglaise, with little pleats around the waist. The coiffure is known as à l'enfance.
Anglaise, pulled up to give ease in dancing.
Fitted levite with a train like an anglaise. Coiffure is a large, round hat on a low toque over a single curl on the front and four curls hanging on the chignon.
Just noting that the fashionable anglaise should, apparently, be longer than the petticoat.
Anglaise trimmed with embroidered/brocaded gauze, the flat-trim bordered in a gauze frill.
New anglaise trimmed with gauze and blonde lace, with a floral garlande which runs down the middle of the trim; white taffeta belt whose ends are trimmed in blonde lace; hair à la Vestale.
I assume à la Vestale refers to her being hatless with a garland of flowers.
Anglaise, amadis sleeves, the waist tightened with a Levite belt, the skirt worn over a puff.
Morning anglaise with amadis sleeves, short petticoat with a great muslin flounce, double-trimmed fichu. This woman is wearing a Vegogne hat with long [fur?] with a ribbon around it.
"Vegogne" might be a typo of "vergogne", meaning shame or modesty. That furry hat is ... quite something.
Taffeta anglaise undress, flat-trimmed with a gauze band with a frilled border. The bodice is made à basque, bordered in the same, as well as the folded collar. The coiffure is a peasant bonnet.
True anglaise, without trim, pagoda sleeves with amadis undersleeves, the front of the gown simply turned back, forming a border.
A false boudeuse on a speckled [lit. "flied"] anglaise with a triple collar and a hat à la Caravanne, waving back to her lover whose apparent rigor had forced him to leave.
Boudeuse literally means "sulky"; the root means "to protrude the lip", so perhaps this is a term for a form of bum/hip pad.
Anglaise, mantelet fichu, gauze hat.
Anglaise, the bodice with laces on the back and the skirt pulled up, the sleeves a different color than the gown, the whole bordered in a very narrow ribbon of any color.
The sensitive, virtuous woman in an anglaise bordered à la Marlborough and a demi-balloon hat, busy performing a solo as she waits for a charming duo.
The constant woman, alone, in an anglaise with a triple collar, hat à la Basile, and a trimmed muslin apron: carrying, without thinking, her little lion dog, and seeking to see from afar an object very interesting to her heart.
Anglaise trimmed with flat pleats, bordered with a muslin frill, and braids and buttons the same color as the dress; hat trimmed with a gauze toque loosely fitted with a ribbon.
The brilliant Lise, piqued by her lover's infidelity to her, shortly executes a project of vengeance to return him to her; she is coiffed in a hat à la Caravanne, anglaise trimmed à la Figaro.
After the earlier plate, I believe à la Caravanne refers to the short flounce on the hat's brim.
The blonde Mélite walks at noon to the Palais Royal in the main avenue of the fair, hoping to see the one she has fixed her heart on there: he is dressed in an anglaise, with a hat à la Devonshire.
The young Elvire, talking in the evening of the pleasures that she must [take?] with Lindor in conversation: she wears a hat à la prétention, her gown is an anglaise, her fichu has two gathered collars, and her mantelet is black taffeta.
Young woman protecting herself from "bad exhalations": she is dressed in a redingote à l'Anglaise and coiffed in a bonnet à la matineuse [early riser].
Err ... I think the plate after the furry hat is having a double wardrobe malfunction.
ReplyDeleteYeah, I was going to say something about it but ... what can one say!
ReplyDelete