The Art of the Lingère - Chapter I: Measuring

-
FIRST CHAPTER

The Ell and its fractions in feet, inches, and twelfths of an inch.

The ell, the scissors, the needle, and the thimble are the only instruments of the lingère. The ell is an instrument only used to measure the quantity of linen required or judged necessary for this or that garment in any category. The measure is expressed in ells or in parts of an ell (the Paris ell is used here), language which is mysterious to a number of people; whereas the King's foot containing twelve inches and its division into inches and lines, which every measurement can be reduced to, are familiar to nearly everyone. That is why, to interpret the obscure language of the ell, we explain it here in feet, inches, and lines, and even in part-lines.

The Paris ell is fixed at three feet, seven inches, and eight lines. It is generally measured with a wooden ruler an inch wide and half an inch thick. The two sides are divided up: on one side into four quarters, the last quarter into two eighths, the last eighth into two sixteenths; on the opposite side, it is divided into thirds, the last third into sixths, the last sixth into two twelfths.

Each division is generally marked with gold studs, and the tips are trimmed with iron or leather, to protect them from wear.

The Paris Ell (one inch equals one foot).


The ruler on top is divided in quarters and ends with sixteenths; the one on the bottom in thirds and ends with twelfths.

Division of the Ell in feet, inches, and lines (twelfths of an inch).

Feet.
Inches.
Lines.
Ell
3
7
8
Half-Ell
1
9
10
Third
1
2
6 2/3
Two-thirds
2
5
1 1/2
Quarter

10
11
Three-quarters
2
8
9
Five-quarters
4
6
7
Sixth

7
3 1/3
Three-sixths
1
9
10
Five-sixths
3

4 2/3
Seven-sixths
4
2
11 2/3
Eighth

5
5 1/2
Three-eighths
1
4
4 1/2
Five-eighths
2
3
3 1/2
Seven-eighths
3
2
2 1/2
Nine-eighths
4
1
1 1/2
Twelfth

3
7 2/3
Five-twelfths
1
6
2 1/3
Seven-twelfths
2
1
5 2/3
Eleven-twelfths
3
4
1/3
Sixteenth

2
8 3/4
Three-sixteenths

8
2 1/4
Five-sixteenths
1
1
7 3/4
Seven-sixteenths
1
7
1 1/4
Nine-sixteenths
2

6 3/4
Fifteen-sixteenths
3
4
11 1/4
Twentieth

2
2 1/5
Thirty-second

1
4 3/8

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Pride and Prejudice 1995: The Little Things

-
Image
I did threaten to write about the Ehle/Firth Pride and Prejudice , and since I'm in a writing mood without a topic I decided to make good. Regency adaptations tend to go for an overall accurate look, interpreting age and income within the confines of realistic silhouettes and colors, and so they avoid the scrutiny and reputation that a more obviously artistic and unrealistic production garners. But just as this version of P&P  is not entirely faithful in every respect (e.g. the added Darcy-perspective scenes, the actors nearly all being significantly older than their characters - perhaps the most egregious example being Julia Sawalha in her late twenties playing teenage Lydia), Dinah Hill's costuming is not entirely accurate - mainly in ways that make the period more appealing to modern tastes. The exact date when the story is set is never given; generally, the movie's taken to be set in 1813, when the book was published. I'm not going to go into the full story of
Read more

Ca. 1866 Brown Gown - A Close-Up Look

-
Image
  Hello, everyone! It’s Cassidy, Mimicofmodes here, on Twitter, on Tumblr, on Reddit, and on Etsy.  Anyway, I have a small but fantastic collection of historic clothing. Antique historic clothing, not pieces I’ve made. A few of the pieces I bought myself, at thrift shops and on eBay and Etsy, but most of it was very kindly given to me several years ago by a blogging friend, Natalie Ferguson . Unfortunately, I’ve never had the chance to do anything much with them – but I’m so excited to be able to share them with the world this way! My collection ranges from a late 18th century shift to a 1980s cocktail dress, with most pieces from the early 20th century. At first I thought I could show you this gorgeous Edwardian evening skirt – the bodice apparently didn’t survive, or maybe it was sold separately at some point – but it’s very delicate. I wouldn’t want to put it on my dress form. I also don’t have a large enough space on the floor to lay it out! However, I’m moving this winter, and I s
Read more

Pattern Time: 1860s Chemise

-
Image
For my 150th post ( \o/ ), a quick little pattern someone might find useful. When I was working my way through a box a few weeks ago, I came across a chemise that didn't quite want to lay flat.  I took a closer look at it to figure out why, and noticed that it had a unique construction with the sleeves cut in one with the body and gussets inserted in the neckline.  I did a really quick sketch of the cutting layout and measured the important bits, so that when I got home I could draw it up in proportion on graph paper. (nb. I messed up. I've been noticing it for a while, but didn't want to point it out from shame, but I accidentally gave the neckline length as it is when gathered - the horizontal cut should be much longer, to within about four inches of the side seam. Please correct for this when making your own version.)
Read more