Museu do Traje, Part I (Nineteenth Century)

-
Last summer, I traveled to Portugal with my family.  One of the last things that we did was to go to the Museu do Traje - the National Fashion Museum.  I took pictures of pretty much everything, but I've never shared them, so:

They start off with a Regency/Empire/Neoclassical room.

P7050058 P7050063

P7050059

I'm not entirely sure what was going on with this one.  The chat labels only discussed the materials, there was nothing about the provenance or aesthetic context.  But it was dressed on a pregnant mannequin!

P7050060

I took a picture of the hem decoration for future reference.

P7050062

P7050064 P7050061

The neckline is so low!  I don't see how you could wear a chemise or corset with that.  At that point I was thinking purely in terms of research for costume-making, but by the next room I had decided to take a picture of each dress.

P7050065

A beautifully whiteworked late 1820s day dress.

P7050066

Day dress, 1833-1836.

P7050067

Day dress, 1845-1847.

P7050068

Evening dress, 1848-1855. You can see the Rococo influence in all that scalloped pinking and the use of a floral pattern.

P7050069

Morning dress, 1850-1855.

P7050070

(Sorry for the blur.) Day dress, 1850-1855.

P7050071

Day dress, 1855-1860? I'm very confused about this one, as I can't find sleeves like that anywhere else, and none of these 1850s dresses have been dressed over hoops.

P7050072

Day dress. The bodice looks 1865-1870 to me, but again, it's not dressed over a hoop, which makes it hard to see the shape of the skirt.

P7050073

Reception dress, ca. 1874.

P7050074

Day dress, ca. 1878. This dress and the previous were probably made for the same person - they're both quite tiny and have the same proportions.

P7050075

Day dress, ca. 1892.

P7050076

Walking dress, ca. 1895.

P7050078

Day dress, ca. 1898.

P7050080

Day dress, ca. 1899.

P7050081

Two day outfits, ca. 1899.

P7050083

A selection of corsets.

P7050084

A selection of tornures!

P7050086

P7050088

P7050089

Peignoirs.

P7050087

Nightwear; corset cover and drawers; chemise.

P7050091

Nightcaps.



Comments

  1. ilovecheeseMay 26, 2012 at 12:28 PM

    Did you take any pictures of the folklore costumes? I really want to find a pattern to sew one for myself but I really want it to be authentic lol

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. CassidyMay 26, 2012 at 2:12 PM

      I don't think there were any out when I went, or I definitely would have!

      Delete
  2. ilovecheeseMay 26, 2012 at 12:30 PM

    Did you take any pictures of the folklore costumes? I really want to find a pattern to sew one for myself but I really want it to be authentic lol

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Pride and Prejudice 1995: The Little Things

-
Image
I did threaten to write about the Ehle/Firth Pride and Prejudice , and since I'm in a writing mood without a topic I decided to make good. Regency adaptations tend to go for an overall accurate look, interpreting age and income within the confines of realistic silhouettes and colors, and so they avoid the scrutiny and reputation that a more obviously artistic and unrealistic production garners. But just as this version of P&P  is not entirely faithful in every respect (e.g. the added Darcy-perspective scenes, the actors nearly all being significantly older than their characters - perhaps the most egregious example being Julia Sawalha in her late twenties playing teenage Lydia), Dinah Hill's costuming is not entirely accurate - mainly in ways that make the period more appealing to modern tastes. The exact date when the story is set is never given; generally, the movie's taken to be set in 1813, when the book was published. I'm not going to go into the full story of...
Read more

A Difficult History: Corsetry and Feminism, Part One

-
Image
Recently, I began following a couple of Tumblr blogs focusing on waist training and daily corset wear. Daily wear is not for me, waist training even less so, but I find it an interesting practice. It is also a controversial one. For example, a recent Huffington Post article, " Corset Queen Penny Brown Loves Getting 'Waisted' ," drew comments which were nearly all extremely negative, as do most articles that bring the practice to mainstream attention. Usually, the mental states of the women who waist-train are called into question, and there are numerous references to feminism as incompatible with corsets. The general idea is that the first wave feminists of the late 19th and early 20th century would be horrified by women today wearing them, and that their assumed reaction is an objective statement on the practice. My feeling is that the subject is complex, and cannot be simply declared feminist or unfeminist. There are far more factors than the average internet comm...
Read more

Pattern Time: 1860s Chemise

-
Image
For my 150th post ( \o/ ), a quick little pattern someone might find useful. When I was working my way through a box a few weeks ago, I came across a chemise that didn't quite want to lay flat.  I took a closer look at it to figure out why, and noticed that it had a unique construction with the sleeves cut in one with the body and gussets inserted in the neckline.  I did a really quick sketch of the cutting layout and measured the important bits, so that when I got home I could draw it up in proportion on graph paper. (nb. I messed up. I've been noticing it for a while, but didn't want to point it out from shame, but I accidentally gave the neckline length as it is when gathered - the horizontal cut should be much longer, to within about four inches of the side seam. Please correct for this when making your own version.)
Read more