Monday, October 22, 2012

Galerie des Modes, 11e Cahier, 6e Figure

Ball dress, the bodice and petticoat pulled up with tassels, the sides of the same color: the underpetticoat* is another color.  The sleeves are covered with a poufed trim with pearls; the trim of the underskirt is decorated with a flower garland; all the trims are a light gauze.  Very large coiffure with plumes. (1778)

Ball dress.  The bodice and petticoat are of the same stuff and color.  This petticoat is pulled up with tassels on the sides, a little in back, and on the front unevenly through the pockets: it allows, as it were, the discovery of a second petticoat of a different color, trimmed with a volant of striped gauze, headed with a flower garland, with barrieres of flowers and sequins.  Little apron of gauze matching the volant, trimmed around the edges.  The body has a top-rounded bib, showing graceful contours.  Sleeves with large gauze sabot cuffs, trimmed in poufs, with pearls, flowers, and sequins.

Coiffure in a "nascent tuft", caressed by a pearl garland moving from right to left and becoming lost under the flower garland, forming a triangle surrounded by a ribbon head-band.

Panache of several raised and wobbly leaves on an aigrette of three straight feathers.  Braided chignon, with four curls à l'Anglaise on each side; the favori tilted in front of the ear.  A row of pearls for a necklace.  Double bow on the shoulder, and a bouquet on the left.  The Printer has placed it on the right side to keep from hiding the Figure.

Shoes with low heels, the coup-de-pied* free, embroidered with sequins.  Round rosettes, with a large sequin in the center.

* The use of "corsage", "juppon", and "jupe de dessous" imply that this outfit is made of a separate bodice and petticoats, like court dress.
** Literally "kick", possibly the toe?



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