Thursday, September 27, 2012

Galerie des Modes, 7e Cahier, 6e Figure


Child's governess in the home of People of Quality. (1778)

Another character Drawing, in the dress of a child's Governess in the home of people of quality.  Caraco of Indian taffeta, with matching petticoat, the whole trimmed in box pleats of the same material; sabot-cuffed sleeves, having a head of gauze resembling short manchettes or bonshommes.


Large muslin apron, with a trimmed pocket and a busquée bib* in the shape of a semi-circle, in the style of a maid's clothing.

Coiffure on a racine droite, with four curls; pouf cap à papillon pleated en gouleau;* ribbon wrapped around it,** pinched at the front of the head by a black brush, with two bouillonné bands on top.

The position of this governess prevents one from seeing her fine leg; her breast is lily-white, and a ruffled handkerchief covers it; but it can be found by Lubin.

* Unknown meaning.
** "formante le turban"

2 comments:

  1. I think busqué here means the bib had been rounded to follow he collar line on front : that is the two corners of the bib would be pinned higher than the front.
    By the middle of the 19th century, some dictionnaries used the term to say that the top of a skirt was cut out, rounded, to mount the dress and level it correctly. I guess the term was alrdady used in the 18th century, but maybe not in dictionnaries.

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    1. Interesting, interesting. (It might be in a later dictionary - the one I'm using is from '64.) Thank you for the insight! What do you think about the next one? It says that the bodice is "busquée comme un fourreau". And I translated "fourreau" because I had no idea, but do you think at that point "un fourreau" could mean a pleated-back gown? Now that I search the MFA's collection I can see that there's one usage of "un fourreau", but it seems to mean something slightly different.

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