Friday, September 21, 2012

Galerie des Modes, 7e Cahier, 1ere Figure


Woman in a Polonaise Gown of striped taffeta, trimmed with gauze, retying her garter 
and allowing the sight of her lovely leg. (1778)


Current Polonaise, or frock-coat Polonaise, very comfortable for the morning and the country.  This stylish, sprightly, and informal Dress is fastened with a ribbon*; it should be pulled up very high, and is made only of light stuff.  The wings, or sides of the Polonaise, must be short and the tail very long.

The Print represents one of these gowns, in Indian taffeta with little stripes of equal width; trimmed with plain gauze; the volant is also of gauze, bouillonée at the top; the sleeves are hidden under the ruched cuffs, which match the top of the flounce; very large ribbon on the chest, matching the bows that hold up the polonaise.

Tambourine hat (it has been called, since this Print, the "beautiful leg" hat**); the edges folded up, of plain gauze like the gown trim; the crown or toque of material that matches the polonaise or the ribbon, pleated and held by three double rows of pearls, which are held up with sequined buttons; three straight curls with the favori touching the ears, leaving the earlobes uncovered; under the toque, a panache of four floating plumes of assorted colors, from which springs an aigrette of three curved pheasant feathers.

A gauze collar, trimmed with frills, with a bow on the front, giving relief and finishing off the trimming of this elegant ensemble.

* "le parfait contentement"
* "le chapeau à belle jambe"



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