Pattern Time: 1860s Chemise

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For my 150th post ( \o/ ), a quick little pattern someone might find useful.

When I was working my way through a box a few weeks ago, I came across a chemise that didn't quite want to lay flat.  I took a closer look at it to figure out why, and noticed that it had a unique construction with the sleeves cut in one with the body and gussets inserted in the neckline.  I did a really quick sketch of the cutting layout and measured the important bits, so that when I got home I could draw it up in proportion on graph paper.


(nb. I messed up. I've been noticing it for a while, but didn't want to point it out from shame, but I accidentally gave the neckline length as it is when gathered - the horizontal cut should be much longer, to within about four inches of the side seam. Please correct for this when making your own version.)


Here are a few photographs for further explanation:





I didn't take very detailed construction notes, or note the length of the neck and arm bands.  The side seams are sewn by machine, and so are the lines of cording in the bands.  The cording runs down the middle of each band, with the free ends folded under to enclose the gathers. The top seams of the sleeves are sewn with a a band of eyelet embroidery.

Comments

  1. Gabriela SalvadorAugust 30, 2012 at 2:02 PM

    this is genius! thank you!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. CassidyAugust 30, 2012 at 2:06 PM

      You're welcome! It seemed so weird to me that I had to work it out. I don't think I've ever seen an extant chemise or a pattern that had a similar construction.

      Delete
  2. Sanna KAugust 30, 2012 at 11:52 PM

    Ooh, I'm dreaming of a 1860s costume so if I ever make it, this will be my chemise! Thank you so much for posting!½

    ReplyDelete
  3. JuliaAugust 31, 2012 at 6:24 AM

    Very interesting! Thanks for sharing :)

    ReplyDelete
  4. Green MarthaSeptember 14, 2012 at 7:53 AM

    This is just brilliant ! Now I want to make one :D

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. CassidySeptember 14, 2012 at 9:23 AM

      I hope you do! I want to see how it turns out.

      Delete
  5. A Country VictorianJuly 29, 2013 at 1:29 PM

    I made one of these and I love it! I could have made mine even wider, but I didn't want to get it too bulky for under my corset. :) Do you mind if I use the picture of your pattern in my blog post? Full credit given and a link to your page, of course.

    -Veronica

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. CassidyJuly 29, 2013 at 7:38 PM

      Excellent! I have been wanting to see it made up for ages. It's totally fine for you to use the picture with credit.

      Delete
    2. A Country VictorianJuly 29, 2013 at 10:21 PM

      Thank you very much! :) Here's a link to my post if you want to read it: http://acountryvictorian.blogspot.com/2013/07/my-chemise-and-split-drawers-and-dress.html

      -Veronica

      Delete
  6. esoraleak; KaelaNovember 2, 2013 at 8:54 AM

    That's tatted lace on the edges!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. CassidyNovember 2, 2013 at 8:58 AM

      Yep! I need to learn how to do that one of these days.

      Delete
    2. esoraleak; KaelaNovember 5, 2013 at 5:47 PM

      It's one of my favorite hobbies! I have a tatting blog: straightlacedtatting dot blogspot dot com. Take a look! I think I'm going to make this chemise soon; maybe I'll put tatting on it.

      Delete
    3. esoraleak; KaelaDecember 1, 2013 at 9:27 PM

      I did make this chemise! Here's my blog post about it: http://fabricoftime.blogspot.com/2013/12/my-favorite-underwear.html

      Delete

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