For the study of historical dress; consisting of analyses of costume in paintings, translations of and research into fashion plates, and occasionally actual sewing.
Galerie des Modes, 32e Cahier, 1ere Figure
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Young Lady carrying her child in a Cradle to breastfeed while walking. She is dressed in a Lévite whose Collar is painted all around and trimmed with Gauze, as are the parements of the Sleeves. (1780)
Dear Cassidy, How I wish this plate had come with more details...the materials, for instance. Is this painted silk we are looking at, or painted cotton, or even painted linen? Of what is the volante (flounce) made on the petticoat? Is this a gauze or something with more body?
Love the way the nurse's pinner apron is worn, so that the top becomes the dress neckline. So nice and clean.
My lady's hat I could do without. It looks like an erupting volcano.
I'm with you on the baby trough. Clearly, she can barely hang on to the thing while sitting, let alone walking. I enjoy the look on the maid's face. She seems highly amused at the mistress's new apparatus.
I did threaten to write about the Ehle/Firth Pride and Prejudice , and since I'm in a writing mood without a topic I decided to make good. Regency adaptations tend to go for an overall accurate look, interpreting age and income within the confines of realistic silhouettes and colors, and so they avoid the scrutiny and reputation that a more obviously artistic and unrealistic production garners. But just as this version of P&P is not entirely faithful in every respect (e.g. the added Darcy-perspective scenes, the actors nearly all being significantly older than their characters - perhaps the most egregious example being Julia Sawalha in her late twenties playing teenage Lydia), Dinah Hill's costuming is not entirely accurate - mainly in ways that make the period more appealing to modern tastes. The exact date when the story is set is never given; generally, the movie's taken to be set in 1813, when the book was published. I'm not going to go into the full story of
For my 150th post ( \o/ ), a quick little pattern someone might find useful. When I was working my way through a box a few weeks ago, I came across a chemise that didn't quite want to lay flat. I took a closer look at it to figure out why, and noticed that it had a unique construction with the sleeves cut in one with the body and gussets inserted in the neckline. I did a really quick sketch of the cutting layout and measured the important bits, so that when I got home I could draw it up in proportion on graph paper. (nb. I messed up. I've been noticing it for a while, but didn't want to point it out from shame, but I accidentally gave the neckline length as it is when gathered - the horizontal cut should be much longer, to within about four inches of the side seam. Please correct for this when making your own version.)
Recently, I began following a couple of Tumblr blogs focusing on waist training and daily corset wear. Daily wear is not for me, waist training even less so, but I find it an interesting practice. It is also a controversial one. For example, a recent Huffington Post article, " Corset Queen Penny Brown Loves Getting 'Waisted' ," drew comments which were nearly all extremely negative, as do most articles that bring the practice to mainstream attention. Usually, the mental states of the women who waist-train are called into question, and there are numerous references to feminism as incompatible with corsets. The general idea is that the first wave feminists of the late 19th and early 20th century would be horrified by women today wearing them, and that their assumed reaction is an objective statement on the practice. My feeling is that the subject is complex, and cannot be simply declared feminist or unfeminist. There are far more factors than the average internet comm
Dear Cassidy,
ReplyDeleteHow I wish this plate had come with more details...the materials, for instance. Is this painted silk we are looking at, or painted cotton, or even painted linen? Of what is the volante (flounce) made on the petticoat? Is this a gauze or something with more body?
Love the way the nurse's pinner apron is worn, so that the top becomes the dress neckline. So nice and clean.
My lady's hat I could do without. It looks like an erupting volcano.
Very best,
Natalie
Yes, it is too bad - this chapter's really more about showing philosophies than fashion.
DeleteI'm still stuck on carrying the baby in its cradle rather than just ... holding it in her arms. Why??
I'm with you on the baby trough. Clearly, she can barely hang on to the thing while sitting, let alone walking. I enjoy the look on the maid's face. She seems highly amused at the mistress's new apparatus.
ReplyDelete