I have always been a little bit confused about the
contouche. It doesn't come up when I check period French dictionaries, and modern sources define it as either the
robe battante/
volante, the
robe à la française, or both. When I bought a second-hand copy of
The Pictorial Encyclopedia of Fashion (1972), I was happy to see the use of
contouche to mean the
volante, because it was the earliest published source I had for it and now I could start tracking it back. However, as is common with this kind of book, there was no citation to show where it came from. (I should mention that I'm not a fan of the term, as it doesn't seem very useful to me, since it's either unspecific and ambiguous or just unnecessary. At the same time, I try to accept that there was overlap in definitions, and that every single different term doesn't necessarily have its own specific shades of meaning.)
German Wikipedia brought me to the origin being "Kontusch" in Hungarian, meaning a pleated garment. I started searching for period Hungarian dictionaries, and Google Books helpfully pointed out that I probably meant "Kontusz" when I didn't get any results. There are academic sources, but the most accessible description is on
Wikipedia: "a type of outer garment worn by the
Hungarian,
Polish,
Belarusian,
Lithuanian and
Ukrainian male nobility". In the seventeenth century, it became "a notable element of male Polish national and
Ukrainian cossack attire".
Anyway, what brought me to this now was that I was pinning frenziedly from Winterthur's online collections when I found this plate:
This image of a tailor's wife shows her carrying various tools of his trade, all helpfully labeled in French and German. Scissors, thread, needles, iron ... and her upper garment, which is labeled
contouche! While this garment is unfitted and pleated like the
volante, it is also only about knee-length.
Köhler's
History of Costume (1928, reprinted in 1963) is actually my earliest non-period source, and it is more specific than the
Pictorial Encyclopedia
(which describes it as "a comfortable morning gown in the 18th
century"): "... wide overdresses. These resembled long cloaks with
sleeves, without any shaping at the waist; they hung from the shoulders
to the feet, gradually widening downward. ... they were open all down
the front ..." It also states that "short
contouches, reaching to the knees and worn only indoors, were popular in Germany, and were known as
Cossäcklein." Which fits with the print, and since that's German it's impossible to say what it definitively means for French or English women (although since the woman is outside, that does bring it into question). So I look further.
To me, it's a little suspicious that this reference (which is in a list of women's clothing, although I'm not sure of the context) mentions a petticoat and
contouche together and of the same fabric, since the long
battante doesn't tend to show a petticoat.
Then I sort of went off on a tangent, and started looking up
robe volante and
robe battante. I don't think I came across any uses of the latter, but the former is mentioned fairly frequently.
"A
robe volante is a summer gown made of very light taffeta. ...
Casaque volante is a casaque for wearing in the summer."
Contouche actually seems to come up the most on Google Books with French-German dictionaries, which perhaps implies that it was only used on the Continent.
So, no exciting revelations this time, just ponderings.
Dear Cassidy,
ReplyDeleteThis is almost my favorite kind of post, the one in which we look up etymologies, and start to be able to climb into the terms that people of the period used.
A search like that, sans internet, could have consumed years. Back in grad school I looked up citations for a professor using her index card system (you know, free student labor and all that), and oh, she had spent years putting it all together.
Big fun!!
Very best,
Natalie
There are times when I sit quietly and reflect on how incredibly difficult it would be to do the research that takes me maybe five minutes. I don't know which is more amazing, having all of these rare books at my fingertips or being able to search texts for the one dress mention in them.
DeleteI love doing these posts, too! Even when I don't come up with anything, or when I just make things more complicated, it makes me happy.