Friday, February 22, 2013

Galerie des Modes, 29e Cahier, 1ere Figure

Woman dressed in a plain Lévite edged with a band of pleated Gauze; the Belt in the latest fashion, of spotted ribbon, with knots and fringe at the end; she is coiffed with a turban or toque à la Levantine pulled up with Pearls and surmounted with plumes in panaches on a half-négligée and very relaxed hairstyle. (1780)

LÉVITE A LA DÉVOTE, the bodice closed very high, with a bow matching the belt, from which the collar escapes, almost entirely covering the chest.  Volant uniform with the petticoat; belt tied in a bow, trimmed with a headed fringe called à la JuiveParement of the sleeve en bottes.  Hairstyle low and loose, underneath a Levantine toque, shaded by a panache with four branches, accompanied by an aigrette of heron feathers.

The Man who holds the lorgnette is dressed in an Overcoat trimmed with wood buttons worked in marquetry, very light and very unique.  Round wig à la Jokeis; hat, buttoned in the back; cow-nose shoes, following the ancient fashion, favorable for gouty feet.

The other figure, pressing his lips to a hand which is slipping him a billet-doux, is dressed in a deshabillé or overcoat edged de systéme, in a double row on the pockets.  Vest and breeches matching the Suit; hair à l'espoir with a finger curl.



4 comments:

  1. Dear Cassidy,
    Ah, these May-December marriages rarely turn out well, planned or not. Little sly boots has picked an unappealing young man, or perhaps it's just the artists' perspective that's at fault.

    Anyhow, this Levite ensemble has to be one of my favorites of all those in the current volume. It's relative simple, the colors are attractive, and the hair isn't outlandish. Methinks the Mr. does not approve of mile-high 'dos?

    The dress is rather makeable, actually; wonder why no costumers make Levites?

    Very best,

    Natalie

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    1. I've noticed that some of the "handsome" men in these have baby heads - not very appealing, no!

      I've been wondering why a lot of these (the familiar ones, anyway, from the MFA) don't seem to have inspired much interest among costumers/reenactors/recreationists. My guess is that the plain ones (levites, turques) are just too plain to appeal, and the fancy ones (circassiennes) look like too much work ... but then, a lot of people like doing fairly plain gowns, don't they? So my next guess is that people don't like the long sleeves, because so many events take place in the summer, and because longer sleeves take longer to fit and make up.

      I think an event based around neglected types of gowns and trimming styles would be a fun response!

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  2. Lovely, I would gladly wear any of those 3 outfits. I think the one on the left is my favorite, I do love red coats.

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    1. I think I prefer the grey suit - all that gold braid!

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