Galerie des Modes, 27e Cahier, 3e Figure

-
Robe à la Turque or type of Circassienne, but different than the others; it has a collar like a Lévite, and a very large white scarf knotted at the waist: the petticoat is coupé: no trimming.  This gown, which we will show in profile and from the back, attracted all the eyes of the Public, when it was seen for the first time at the Palais Royal in the month of last July 1779. (1779)
Robe à la Turque, called the Turquoise.  It was in the beautiful path of the Palais-Royal that this Gown was seen for the first time, thus is it shown in the Print.  The young Beauty who was dressed in it held all gazes, and the Public, always intrusive when presented with something new that pleases it, having, so to speak, enclosed her in a circle with a diameter that shrank without ceasing, would have suffocated her if the Swiss Guards had not hastened to her aid, and had not given her the facility to escape from this so-dangerous acclaim.

It is a type of dolman that is fitted in front, without pleats and very narrow, with a folded-back collar holding to the Gown, and funnel-shaped sleeves.  The underbodice is separated from the petticoat, and pleated like the fourreaux à l'Anglaise.*

Draped belt, knotted on the side, around the hip, and allowing the waist to be seen in all its lightness.

Amadis sleeves matching the petticoat, the parement à la cavaliere, matching the Gown.  Kerchief knotted en cravate, hair en tapé, with a hat en champignon.**

We will have occasion to show this pretty Gown in the first two Prints of the thirtieth Book. 
  
* Chatty footnote: I've been trying to figure out what exactly is meant by "fourreau" and how back fitting-pleats were described for a while, because I'm not 100% sure that they're always the same thing.  In this case, though, it does kind of sound like the underbodice is fitted with sewn-down pleats in back.
** en tapé relates to flattened, dried fruit; en champignon is "mushroom-style"



Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Pride and Prejudice 1995: The Little Things

-
Image
I did threaten to write about the Ehle/Firth Pride and Prejudice , and since I'm in a writing mood without a topic I decided to make good. Regency adaptations tend to go for an overall accurate look, interpreting age and income within the confines of realistic silhouettes and colors, and so they avoid the scrutiny and reputation that a more obviously artistic and unrealistic production garners. But just as this version of P&P  is not entirely faithful in every respect (e.g. the added Darcy-perspective scenes, the actors nearly all being significantly older than their characters - perhaps the most egregious example being Julia Sawalha in her late twenties playing teenage Lydia), Dinah Hill's costuming is not entirely accurate - mainly in ways that make the period more appealing to modern tastes. The exact date when the story is set is never given; generally, the movie's taken to be set in 1813, when the book was published. I'm not going to go into the full story of...
Read more

A Difficult History: Corsetry and Feminism, Part One

-
Image
Recently, I began following a couple of Tumblr blogs focusing on waist training and daily corset wear. Daily wear is not for me, waist training even less so, but I find it an interesting practice. It is also a controversial one. For example, a recent Huffington Post article, " Corset Queen Penny Brown Loves Getting 'Waisted' ," drew comments which were nearly all extremely negative, as do most articles that bring the practice to mainstream attention. Usually, the mental states of the women who waist-train are called into question, and there are numerous references to feminism as incompatible with corsets. The general idea is that the first wave feminists of the late 19th and early 20th century would be horrified by women today wearing them, and that their assumed reaction is an objective statement on the practice. My feeling is that the subject is complex, and cannot be simply declared feminist or unfeminist. There are far more factors than the average internet comm...
Read more

Pattern Time: 1860s Chemise

-
Image
For my 150th post ( \o/ ), a quick little pattern someone might find useful. When I was working my way through a box a few weeks ago, I came across a chemise that didn't quite want to lay flat.  I took a closer look at it to figure out why, and noticed that it had a unique construction with the sleeves cut in one with the body and gussets inserted in the neckline.  I did a really quick sketch of the cutting layout and measured the important bits, so that when I got home I could draw it up in proportion on graph paper. (nb. I messed up. I've been noticing it for a while, but didn't want to point it out from shame, but I accidentally gave the neckline length as it is when gathered - the horizontal cut should be much longer, to within about four inches of the side seam. Please correct for this when making your own version.)
Read more