The Place of Fabrics: Miscellaneous!
I was able to find a great many different terms for different types of fabric, far too many to create a post for each one - especially as many only come up in legal/accounting contexts, rather than descriptive ones. So I decided to make a post for all of the fabrics that I mainly found in accounting contexts, as these references do give information on how much they're comparatively worth
Camlet:
Defined in the 1736 Dictionarium Britannicum as:
Book-Keeping Methodised (John Mair, 1772):
In the Elizabethan era, camlet was a luxury fabric, but it gradually acquired a lower status (Julia St. Lawrence, Mary Robinson, 1797):
Corduroy:
The Statistical Account of Scotland (Sir John Sinclair, 1793):
A New and Complete Method of Book-Keeping (William Mitchell, 1796): (prices given by the yard)
Dowlas:
"Love in a Village", from Bell's British Theatre (Isaac Bicketstaff, orig. pub. 1762):
Book-Keeping Methodised (John Mair, 1772):
The Instructions for Cutting Out Apparel for the Poor (1789) recommends dowlas for both shifts and shirts.
Drugget:
A Tour Thro' the Whole Island of Great Britain (1724):
Durant:
Defined as a type of strong cloth. I can only find it in account books, and it seems to have been very cheap.
Book-Keeping Methodised (John Mair, 1772):
An Introduction to Merchandize (Robert Hamilton, 1779):
Fustian:
The 1797 Encyclopaedia Britannica defines it as:
But it seems to have changed slightly, as the 1839 Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures, and Mines defines it as:
A New Description of [Several Counties] (1749):
The Monthly Intelligencer (1749):
Jean:
A Complete System of Pleading (John Wentworth, 1796, discussing the year 1789):
Moreen:
Statutes Passed in the Parliaments Held in Ireland (1794):
A New and Complete Method of Book-Keeping (William Mitchell, 1796):
Sarah Martin, the Prison Visitor of Great Yarmouth (1799):
Poplin (farrandine, grogram):
Spectacle de la Nature (Noël Antoine Pluche, 1763):
Pulicate:
Named for a city in India. Could be cotton or silk. Probably lightweight, as it is a handkerchief material.
Rateen:
Short for "harrateen". Webster's 1828 dictionary defines it as "a kind of stuff or cloth"; the modern Merriam-Webster defines it as being mainly used for bed hangings and curtains.
Rattinet is "a woolen stuff thinner than rateen".
A New and Complete Method of Book-Keeping (William Mitchell, 1796):
To Samuel Henry & Co, for sundries, viz.
yds. d. c.
2 ps. pink callimancoe 30 8 50
...
2 ps. mulberry durant " 8
...
1 ps. dark blue moreen 24 11
...
1 ps. scarlet rattinet 30 16
Red baize/bays:
"The Devil to Pay, or, The Wives Metamorphos'd," (Bell's British Theatre orig. pub. 1731):
An Account of Several Workhouses (1732):
A New and Complete Method of Book-Keeping (William Mitchell, 1796):
Sattinet:
Defined in the 1764 New and Complete Dictionary of Arts and Sciences as:
Authentick Memoirs of the Life, Intrigues and Adventures of the Celebrated Sally Salisbury (Capt. Charles Walker, 1723):
An Essay on the Manufactures of Ireland (Thomas Wallace, 1798):
Senshaw:
The only definition I can find is that it is a cloth worn in China.
Serge:
It is defined and described as a fulled wool cloth in the 1797 Encyclopaedia Britannica. It is also the same thing as "sey".
Spectacle de la Nature (Noël Antoine Pluche, 1763):
Shalloon:
The Young Mathematician's Guide (John Ward, 1731):
"Memoirs of Wool, &c." from Chronicon Rusticum-Commerciale (John Smith, 1747):
(A similar statement is in Observations on British Wool, 1737.)
Ticklenburg:
Defined in 1913 as "a coarse, mixed linen fabric made to be sold in the West Indies."
A New and Complete System of Book-Keeping (William Mitchell, 1796)
Camlet:
Defined in the 1736 Dictionarium Britannicum as:
CA'MLET, CAME'LOT: [prob. of Zambelot, a term used in the Levant for that stuff made of goat's hair] a sort of stuff made of camel's hair, silk, etc. mix'd.
CAMLETTEE, CAMELETTEEN: a sort of fine worsted camlets or camelots.
Book-Keeping Methodised (John Mair, 1772):
In the Elizabethan era, camlet was a luxury fabric, but it gradually acquired a lower status (Julia St. Lawrence, Mary Robinson, 1797):
Corduroy:
The Statistical Account of Scotland (Sir John Sinclair, 1793):
A New and Complete Method of Book-Keeping (William Mitchell, 1796): (prices given by the yard)
James Ash, for d. c.
4 yards duffle 75
2 " red baize 70
3 " velveret 80
2.5 " corduroy 1
5 " fustian 45
Dowlas:
"Love in a Village", from Bell's British Theatre (Isaac Bicketstaff, orig. pub. 1762):
Book-Keeping Methodised (John Mair, 1772):
The Instructions for Cutting Out Apparel for the Poor (1789) recommends dowlas for both shifts and shirts.
Drugget:
A Tour Thro' the Whole Island of Great Britain (1724):
Durant:
Defined as a type of strong cloth. I can only find it in account books, and it seems to have been very cheap.
Book-Keeping Methodised (John Mair, 1772):
An Introduction to Merchandize (Robert Hamilton, 1779):
Fustian:
The 1797 Encyclopaedia Britannica defines it as:
But it seems to have changed slightly, as the 1839 Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures, and Mines defines it as:
A New Description of [Several Counties] (1749):
The Monthly Intelligencer (1749):
Jean:
A Complete System of Pleading (John Wentworth, 1796, discussing the year 1789):
Moreen:
Statutes Passed in the Parliaments Held in Ireland (1794):
A New and Complete Method of Book-Keeping (William Mitchell, 1796):
Robert Hughes, for: d. c.
10 yards blue cloth 3
8 " coating 1 25
10 " duffle 50
5 " bocking baize 70
3 " flannel 40
6 " velveret 80
7 " moreen 60
Sarah Martin, the Prison Visitor of Great Yarmouth (1799):
Poplin (farrandine, grogram):
Spectacle de la Nature (Noël Antoine Pluche, 1763):
Pulicate:
Named for a city in India. Could be cotton or silk. Probably lightweight, as it is a handkerchief material.
Rateen:
Short for "harrateen". Webster's 1828 dictionary defines it as "a kind of stuff or cloth"; the modern Merriam-Webster defines it as being mainly used for bed hangings and curtains.
Rattinet is "a woolen stuff thinner than rateen".
A New and Complete Method of Book-Keeping (William Mitchell, 1796):
To Samuel Henry & Co, for sundries, viz.
yds. d. c.
2 ps. pink callimancoe 30 8 50
...
2 ps. mulberry durant " 8
...
1 ps. dark blue moreen 24 11
...
1 ps. scarlet rattinet 30 16
Red baize/bays:
"The Devil to Pay, or, The Wives Metamorphos'd," (Bell's British Theatre orig. pub. 1731):
An Account of Several Workhouses (1732):
A New and Complete Method of Book-Keeping (William Mitchell, 1796):
James Ashe, for d. c.
4 yards duffle 75
2 " red baize 70
3 " velveret 80
2.5 " corduroy 1
5 " fustian 45
Sattinet:
Defined in the 1764 New and Complete Dictionary of Arts and Sciences as:
Authentick Memoirs of the Life, Intrigues and Adventures of the Celebrated Sally Salisbury (Capt. Charles Walker, 1723):
An Essay on the Manufactures of Ireland (Thomas Wallace, 1798):
Senshaw:
The only definition I can find is that it is a cloth worn in China.
Serge:
It is defined and described as a fulled wool cloth in the 1797 Encyclopaedia Britannica. It is also the same thing as "sey".
Spectacle de la Nature (Noël Antoine Pluche, 1763):
Shalloon:
The Young Mathematician's Guide (John Ward, 1731):
"Memoirs of Wool, &c." from Chronicon Rusticum-Commerciale (John Smith, 1747):
(A similar statement is in Observations on British Wool, 1737.)
Ticklenburg:
Defined in 1913 as "a coarse, mixed linen fabric made to be sold in the West Indies."
A New and Complete System of Book-Keeping (William Mitchell, 1796)
Robert Grier, for d. c.
6 yards Russia sheeting 50
2 " dowlas 40
5 " ticklenburg 35
2 " Scotch osnaburg 20
1.5 " " shirting 36
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