Thursday, February 2, 2012

The Place of Fabrics: Miscellaneous!

I was able to find a great many different terms for different types of fabric, far too many to create a post for each one - especially as many only come up in legal/accounting contexts, rather than descriptive ones.  So I decided to make a post for all of the fabrics that I mainly found in accounting contexts, as these references do give information on how much they're comparatively worth




Camlet:
Defined in the 1736 Dictionarium Britannicum as:
CA'MLET, CAME'LOT: [prob. of Zambelot, a term used in the Levant for that stuff made of goat's hair] a sort of stuff made of camel's hair, silk, etc. mix'd.
CAMLETTEE, CAMELETTEEN: a sort of fine worsted camlets or camelots.

Book-Keeping Methodised (John Mair, 1772):


In the Elizabethan era, camlet was a luxury fabric, but it gradually acquired a lower status (Julia St. Lawrence, Mary Robinson, 1797):


Corduroy:


The Statistical Account of Scotland (Sir John Sinclair, 1793):



A New and Complete Method of Book-Keeping (William Mitchell, 1796): (prices given by the yard)
James Ash, for                   d.  c.
4 yards duffle                         75
2  " red baize                          70
3  " velveret                            80
2.5 " corduroy                    1
5  " fustian                              45

Dowlas:

"Love in a Village", from Bell's British Theatre (Isaac Bicketstaff, orig. pub. 1762):


Book-Keeping Methodised (John Mair, 1772):


The Instructions for Cutting Out Apparel for the Poor (1789) recommends dowlas for both shifts and shirts.


Drugget:

 A Tour Thro' the Whole Island of Great Britain (1724):



Durant:
Defined as a type of strong cloth. I can only find it in account books, and it seems to have been very cheap.

Book-Keeping Methodised (John Mair, 1772):

An Introduction to Merchandize (Robert Hamilton, 1779):

Fustian:

The 1797 Encyclopaedia Britannica defines it as:



But it seems to have changed slightly, as the 1839 Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures, and Mines defines it as:


A New Description of [Several Counties] (1749):


The Monthly Intelligencer (1749):



Jean:

A Complete System of Pleading (John Wentworth, 1796, discussing the year 1789):


Moreen:


Statutes Passed in the Parliaments Held in Ireland (1794):


A New and Complete Method of Book-Keeping (William Mitchell, 1796):
Robert Hughes, for:         d.  c.
10 yards blue cloth          3
8     "      coating              1  25
10   "      duffle                     50
5     "      bocking baize         70
3     "      flannel                    40
6     "      velveret                  80
7     "      moreen                  60

Sarah Martin, the Prison Visitor of Great Yarmouth (1799):


Poplin (farrandine, grogram):

Spectacle de la Nature (Noël Antoine Pluche, 1763):


Pulicate:
Named for a city in India.  Could be cotton or silk.  Probably lightweight, as it is a handkerchief material.

Rateen:
Short for "harrateen".  Webster's 1828 dictionary defines it as "a kind of stuff or cloth"; the modern Merriam-Webster defines it as being mainly used for bed hangings and curtains.

Rattinet is "a woolen stuff thinner than rateen".

A New and Complete Method of Book-Keeping (William Mitchell, 1796):
To Samuel Henry & Co, for sundries, viz.
                                      yds.       d.  c.
2 ps. pink callimancoe      30        8  50

...
2 ps. mulberry durant        "          8
...
1 ps. dark blue moreen    24        11
...
1 ps. scarlet rattinet         30        16

Red baize/bays:


"The Devil to Pay, or, The Wives Metamorphos'd," (Bell's British Theatre orig. pub. 1731):



An Account of Several Workhouses (1732):


A New and Complete Method of Book-Keeping (William Mitchell, 1796):
James Ashe, for             d.   c.
4 yards duffle                      75
2    "     red baize                 70
3    "     velveret                   80

2.5 "    corduroy            1
5    "    fustian                      45

Sattinet:
Defined in the 1764 New and Complete Dictionary of Arts and Sciences as:

Authentick Memoirs of the Life, Intrigues and Adventures of the Celebrated Sally Salisbury (Capt. Charles Walker, 1723):


An Essay on the Manufactures of Ireland (Thomas Wallace, 1798):


Senshaw:
The only definition I can find is that it is a cloth worn in China.


Serge:
It is defined and described as a fulled wool cloth in the 1797 Encyclopaedia Britannica.  It is also the same thing as "sey".

Spectacle de la Nature (Noël Antoine Pluche, 1763):


Shalloon:
The Young Mathematician's Guide (John Ward, 1731):


"Memoirs of Wool, &c." from Chronicon Rusticum-Commerciale (John Smith, 1747):


(A similar statement is in Observations on British Wool, 1737.)

Ticklenburg:
Defined in 1913 as "a coarse, mixed linen fabric made to be sold in the West Indies." 

A New and Complete System of Book-Keeping (William Mitchell, 1796)
Robert Grier, for             d.   c.
6 yards Russia sheeting         50
2   "     dowlas                      40
5   "     ticklenburg                35
2   "    Scotch osnaburg        20
1.5 "    "         shirting            36

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