Monday, April 14, 2014

Cabinet des Modes, 21e Cahier, 2e Figure

September 15, 1786

PLATE II.

ALREADY the pale and somber Autumn has torn away the light coats which befit the summer, and bring forth those of a denser, stronger, softer fabric more fitted to protect from the fury of the frosts. Oh what! the insatiable weather has devoured the  days of our pleasures! no more promenades in the woods! no more merry plains! In an instant, we, sad Stay-at-homes, must wait, in an eternal and tiring repose, for days when, free and liberated from painful ties, we could frolic, play, skip in the somber forests, or in the fields rich with a thousand different flowers! Those few who remain, seize it, enjoy it.

The coats which seem to be in fashion this autumn, are coats in puce wool. The Man drawn in this Plate wears one of this color. The lining of his coat is a matching color. To all the edges is attached a little white ribbon, forming the piping. This is a fashion which was not known in the remotest times, when only the lining furnished the piping. It is a modern refinement which presages the pipings' disappearance. When there is nothing else to attach the ribbon to, piping will be done soon; and already we are there. But so that our Votaries are not frightened; suitably colored linings will hold on for a long time, if however they are not made to clash in a grotesque manner. For you know that it is only a ridiculous overload which eclipses on the field a fashion which promised a long reign. When piping has finished, one will abandon them to contain the whole lining inside the coat. We refer you to the fourteenth Issue, in order to know how to match linings with fabrics.

The buttons on our Man's coat are mother-of-pearl, with a gold circle engraved in the middle.

He wears under his coat a pink moire gilet, with violet stripes.

His breeches are of Cashmere cloth, canary's tail color. They cling perfectly to his thighs, which they hold very tightly.

His silk stockings are striped blue and white.

His shoe buckles are a perfect oval; those of his garters are rectangles.

In his pockets, on either side, are two watches. From one hangs a simple black cord, with a large gold key; from the other a gold chain, with some gold charms.

His hands are covered with chamois gloves, yellow, light. One of his hands is supported on a rather strong bamboo cane, trimmed with a black silk cord, with tassels.

His hair is curled in a large grecque, with four large curls on each side. In the back it is braided à la Panurge.

His hat à l'Androsmane is set on a pedestal, on which he supports himself, to dream deeply.
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Today a prodigious quantity of large buttons for men's or women's coats are made, and medium ones for vests, gilets, breeches, etc. which are painted, and which represent little landscapes, or nymphs, or loves, or spirits, etc, and are placed under glass. You will surely not require us to give to each of our Subscribers at least eight to ten landscape paintings; it suffices that we announce them.

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