Galerie des Modes, 40e Cahier, 2e Figure

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Robe à l'Anglaise trimmed with brocaded Gauze; the trimming is flat, edged with a Gauze frill. (1782)

The transition from the grand, hooped gowns of the reign of Louis XV to the supple and fitted owns which marked the end of the reign of Louis XVI is grasped very exactly.  This evolution was begun over a long period of time and around 1768, the editor of Courrier de la Mode could write:

"Women have succeeded from the grand paniers to simple elbows[?]*, have renounced multiple flounces; the tight gown trimmed with straight parements showing the elegance of their waist; all the too-awkward ornaments ...

"In general, there is in the manner of dressing today something more picturesque and less stiff than in that of other times; we make each day some steps toward beautiful simplicity.  No true taste in the parure without this noble simplicity and without an analogy between a parure and the part of the body to which it is destined."

Le Courrier de la Mode, April 1768

* Probably a figurative term for pocket hoops.

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