New Designs for October, Miroir des Modes, Oct. 1907
My translation of Lauren of Wearing History's article on blouse patterns from Miroir des Modes, October 1907.
[From left to right:]
In Bourdeaux (red) taffeta with Irish guipure
In light blue louisine
and guipure
New Designs for October
The success with which certain of our already-published
designs have been favored leads us to give them new aspects. The quantities required are given for each
design.
Hats are one of the most interesting subjects to treat on at
the beginning of the Autumn. The designs
for tomorrow will be very big (the front especially, very large) and generally
flat, often devoid of barrettes. The high calottes with slender and straight
trim positioned on the front will be very much in favor. Japanese and Chinese braids have not said
their last word and the most renowned modistes
employ them in a profusion of puffs, voluminous knots, and borders. Among the flowers most pursued by the modistes we note the large-petaled
peony, whose persistent success permits it to be made to bloom even in full
autumn. Somber shades have been
accentuated and are based in sumptuous purples or cerise, the two preferred
colors.
A hat which is appropriate for the first cool days of the
season and is specially intended for walking in the morning even during the
winter is of light beige felt, rather small in the crown, with the passe lightly lowered to follow the
contour of the head. A bronze silk scarf
surrounds the calotte and on the left is positioned an enormous knot of silk
and very raised brown wings.
1481 – Corsage Blouse
for Ladies
This waist is mounted on a lining whose top part is fitted
with an inserted yoke. This can be
lengthened to the waist like a plastron or be cut at the top of the bust. One can make this yoke from lace, or when silk or another fabric is used soutache will make a pretty trimming as shown in
our print. The flat and high manchettes are made in lace and the
folded manchettes end them at the
elbow in forming the trim for the short sleeves when those are used. If a straight collar is not preferred one can
cut a squared neckline. The
short pleats distribute the fullness in a becoming fashion over the bust and a
supple leather belt encircles the waist.
The fabrics which agree the best for making it are batiste, linen,
muslin, dimity, and light and supple silks.
Pattern 1481 is sold in 7 sizes, for ladies with chests of
81-112cm [32.4-44.8in]. For an 86cm bust
[34.4in] making up the waist takes 2.25m [2.5yds] of 88cm [35.2in] fabric or
1.95m [2.17yds] of 110cm [44in] fabric in one material, or 2.95m [3.28yds] of
52cm [20.8in] silk with 1.40m [1.56yds] of 46cm [18.4in] wide lace. Price of pattern: 1.25 francs.
[From left to right:]
In crêpe de Chine with guipure
No. 1504 Waist
No. 1504 in white batiste with insertion and embroidery
motifs
No. 1504 in black satinet and guipure on filet
net
In satined taffeta with guipure
No. 1412 Waist
1504 – Pleated or gathered Waist for Ladies
This type of blouse has the advantage of lending itself to
embroidered decorations with a most charming effect. The embroidery of the yoke is made on
domestic fabric with insertions of Valenciennes lace, together with borders, at
the joining of the points made by the insertion for the collar and the high
cuffs; on the cuffs, a row of insertion and a row of embroidery is
inserted. One can, instead of making the
embroidery itself, buy manufactured medallions in stores which will give as
good results. Another fashion of
reproducing this elegant blouse is to make the yoke of a single piece and the
edges with a number of points; without embroidering the yoke, one could make it
in Cluny lace or in guipure; the two methods are equally graceful. The bodice must be lined, with the exception
of the yoke if it is made of guipure.
The front and the back are trimmed with pintucks, if one prefers gathers
one can gather it, the neckline can be décolleté or with a collar. The sleeves are puffed, short or long, both
ending in a cuff or a band of guipure.
Pattern 1504 is sold in 7 sizes, for ladies with chests of
81-112cm [32.4-44.8in], for an 86cm
[34.4in] bust making the bodice requires 2.60m [2.89yds] of 88cm [35.2in]
fabric or 1.85m [2.05yds] of 110cm [44in] fabric. Price of the pattern: 1.25 francs.
1412 – Pleated or gathered Waist for Ladies
Bodice 1412 is sold in 7 sizes, for 76-107cm [30.4-42.8in]
busts. For the medium size, making this
blouse takes 3m [3.33yds] of 70cm [28in] fabric, or 1.85m [2.05yds] of 110cm
[44in] fabric with 75cm [30in] of 46cm [18.4in] wide lace to cover the collar,
the yoke, and the cuffs. Price of the
pattern: 1.25 francs.
WHAT SORT OF FUR will one wear this winter? This is the question which absorbs
everyone. If the elegant women are
impatient to have new and costly furs, those who are sensitive to the cold look
to shelter themselves in warm furs. The
reasonable and economical woman will make her winter choice during the summer,
for she knows that she could have very beautiful ones at a very reduced price,
called the summer price. The pécan or fisher is a long-haired fur of
very ordinary and coarse aspect compared to the sable which seems to be fading
out to cede its place to the latter and to fox.
Skunk fur has ceased to please.
It is one of the most recent decrees from our most skilled furriers, who
devote all their care to rich furs such as fox.
After having dyed its fur, with the aid of a dontils product sprinkle it and spot it with a very skilled and
experienced hand. This spotted fox which
is extremely sought-after will be the fashionable fur.
I love those fashion illustrations from a hundred years ago--women with 6" wide waists! Apparently, "photoshopping" has been going on for a looong time.
ReplyDeleteThe hips, too! That was an era of large shoulders and no hips. Kind of like the early 1930s, hm.
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