Thursday, November 14, 2013

Galerie des Modes, 2e Cahier de Grandes Robes d'Etiquette, 5e Figure

Grand Court parure à la Française. 

To the duchess of Wurtemburg:

"1789, 21 February. - Furnished for a robe française ten and a half ells of striped and cannelé white velvet ... 283 l 10 s

"Six ells of white Italian taffeta for the petticoat ... 51 -

"The petticoat of crêpe striped with white ribbon, embroidered with chenille and green branch-work, reed bouquet, and a drapery ... 290 -

"The trimming of said gown, the parements with drapery trimmed with chenille embroidery in reed designs, and pleated blonde lace, a ribbon bow striped with poppy-colored chenille, blonde lace with a bow of pearls holding the drapery, the bottom of the parement trimmed the same with a barrière of pearls, the petticoat trimmed at the bottom with another pearl barrière, edged with a pleated ruffle of blonde lace on each side. ... 350 -

"A robe edging of pleated fine blonde lace. ... 18 -

"A stomacher of white satin embroidered with poppy chenille ... 18 -

"Draped ribbon sleeve bows in poppy chenille with matching parfait contentement ... 15 -

"A kerchief in flat stitch with a very beautiful wide blonde lace, fond d'Alençon, in a bouquet, a pleated ruffle of fine tulle forming a ruff, a four-rowed ruche of pleated black tulle at the head ... 120 -

"A front-piece on the bodice of goffered and pleated gauze, trimmed with a fine, pretty blonde lace ... 27 -

"A pair of triple manchettes of a very beautiful blonde with a great height, fond d'Alençon with bouquets ... 300 -

"A paré turban cap embroidered with reeds,* in chenille and striped ribbon, in poppy chenille, a pleated ruffle of beautiful blonde, matching that of the kerchief, scarves with reeds edged with a beautiful blonde ... 96 -

"A pair of lappets of beautiful blonde fond d'Alençon, rich border positioned behind ... 48 -

"A bouffante of white taffeta trimmed with embroidery ... 120 -

"The sewing ... 24 -

"Total ... 1,760 l 10 s"

Dossiers Bertin (Doucet Library)

*The structure of this sentence makes me think that roseau may not simply be "reed" but some sort of style of embroidery, as feuillage is both "foliage" and a type of embellishment. But I cannot find any information on what that style would be - for either, actually.

2 comments:

  1. I am looking to identify a similar picture. The difference are, blonde hair, pinkish coloured hat and the front part of the dress is gold on green instead of green on green, bottom square where it splits is also pinkish instead of green. Any clue?

    Without destroying the frame I can not find out any information. Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It's probably from the same publication, if the underlying linework is the same. The coloring isn't consistent across all Galerie des Modes plates. You are very lucky!

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