Thursday, March 15, 2012

Stays - 95% Done!

My reed came yesterday from Wm Booth, Draper!  (The reed I bought weeks earlier from Benfranklin.com has still not arrived - never order from them, I'm going to get the bank to take my money back somehow.)  This morning I spent about an hour and a half cutting it and boning the stays with two pieces back to back in each channel.

 
I'm especially happy with the curved channels on the side back pieces - you can see that they do pull the fabric into a three-dimensional shape.




Really, I could have made them longer in the front.  They're a little bit low on top and could also probably flatten my stomach a bit more if they went further down.  (Part of why they look extra short is that I'm short-waisted, though.)  Next time!  These aren't issues that should drastically affect the fit of a gown I make for these. 


Best thing: those tabby bits close to my arms really do make all the difference.   In my blue stays, I got a more pronounced curve up the front but my bust was completely flattened because nothing held it in from the sides.


The top of the back kind of stands away from my body.  I'm not sure what I can do about that besides try steaming it into shape, as I saw suggested in Cherry Dawson's workshop notes.


The back lacing kind of shifted to be wider at the bottom while I was putting it on.   Hm.


And the other side.  All in all, I'm very happy with these!  Tabs where the bones run straight down from the body are infinitely more comfortable than tabs that are boned separately, in my opinion.  Hopefully I'll get these bound by the end of the week and then I can start on the gown!  My lining linen is out on the line, drying, as I type. 


12 comments:

  1. Looks great! Can't wait to see the gown you make to go over this.

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    1. Think you'll help me drape the lining, or should I just scale it up this time?

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  2. Wow! quite an undertaking and they turned out looking very nice!

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    1. Thank you! They're even better now that I'm almost done binding them.

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  3. The back of the stays jutting out like that is because they are too tall. If you haven't bound them yet, it may be worth cutting the tops down. Start slow- only do about a half an inch at at a time and try them on after each cut. I know it is tedious, but it will be worth it in the end. Other than those minor fitting issues, these looks great! Stays are definitely one of those work in progress things. It wasn't until my fourth pair that I had a set that I was 100% happy with, so don't feel bad that you have a few "next time I'll do it this way..." bits.

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    1. Doh...put in the wrong web address! ladiesinfashion.blogspot.com...

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    2. Hm. I did bind one side, but I could definitely unbind just the top of the back to trim it. Now that I look at the pictures again, it does look more than it should be. Do you know of a rule of thumb about where the top of the stays should hit on your back?

      Thanks for the advice!

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  4. Looks great! Agreed with Taylor--if they're standing away from the body, they might be a touch too tall (had the same problem with my last pair--and not only does it make them look a little funny, but it makes fitting a gown fussy, too). As an aside, I highly recommend Wm Booth, Draper for pretty much anything (but full disclosure--the family are friends of ours).

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  5. Hi there, I read that you used Cherry Dawson's 1780s stays workshop notes - do you have copies of the pictures? All I can find is the text.
    Many thanks,
    Aylwen

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    1. Sadly, no. I could probably take some of the stays I made with them, though, if that would be helpful? (I never got around to lining them.)

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