Tudor Kirtle and Smock

The Smock


The pattern for the smock came from The Tudor Tailor. The fabric is a linen/cotton blend, the embroidery is done in cotton embroidery floss, and the seams are done with cotton/poly thread in a running stitch.

The overall look of the smock came from Portrait of an Unknown Child by an artist of the Flemish School, c.1525-40. A similar high-collared smock is worn in a miniature of Jane Small by Hans Holbein, c. 1540, and by the washerwomen in a page from Splendor Solis, c. 1531 (sorry, you can't really see it in this picture - the one in the very front, though, does have a high collar). The embroidery pattern was taken from what is visible on Anne Boleyn's collar in this portrait of her by Hans Holbein, c. 1536.

The smock wasn't quite finished by the time the picture was taken: later I put on two very small fingerlooped cords at each wrist and at the neck. Each cord is made of two black bows and two white; each bow is a single strand of cotton embroidery floss. I used backstitch on the collar embroidery, but realized that double running stitch/Holbein stitch would work much better and did the slit and cuffs in that.

The Petticoat


The petticoat is made of linen with woven green and pink stripes from Wm. Booth, and sewn with cotton/poly thread. At the time of the picture, it was tied with a slippery shoelace, which is why it's falling off. It was made with directions from Peronel. I used the "efficient" directions, but I gave it a side opening. (I will probably never do that again, as it made doing the pleating even more annoying.) The seams were whipped together.

The Kirtle


The kirtle is made of a blue wool/silk blend and lined with the linen/cotton used for the smock, and was sewn with cotton/poly thread. All seams were whipped together. The pattern was taken from the Tudor Tailor, but I followed Peronel's instructions in putting it together. At the moment it is laced with a corset lace, but I plan to fingerloop a proper cord at some point. There is also a pin in the back of the skirt. The bodice is interlined with osnaburg and most of the front panel was corded with doubled hemp cord. (I admit that the cording channels were done on machine.)

The main problem with the kirtle is that I am ridiculously short-waisted. I should have cut down the neckline on the mockup, shortened the straps, and probably cut down the back a little as well. However, these are things I can still do to this once I have time. The next time that I make anything that laces up the back, I will be changing the pattern so that it laces up the front. I didn't feel comfortable enough to do that the first time.

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