tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5848073453811666225.post8821884105545802351..comments2024-03-08T04:27:48.022-05:00Comments on A Most Beguiling Accomplishment: Re-evaluating C. Frederick WorthCassidyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03596345781746342408noreply@blogger.comBlogger4125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5848073453811666225.post-52376091322811482662016-02-27T11:15:48.477-05:002016-02-27T11:15:48.477-05:00This is a good point. My understanding of LeRoy ha...This is a good point. My understanding of LeRoy has been that he was, as you say, a <i>marchande des modes</i> - but that's not the same thing as a dressmaker, the <i>marchande</i>'s business being more in the line of trimmings and accessories. But looking at his <a href="http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b530841388/f6.item.zoom" rel="nofollow">account book</a> shows that while he was largely providing <i>fournitures</i>, belts, guimpes, etc. he was doing some dressmaking after all! Thank you for prodding me - I'll have to alter the wording to reflect the context.Cassidyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03596345781746342408noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5848073453811666225.post-35612039830842926642016-02-27T10:30:45.365-05:002016-02-27T10:30:45.365-05:00Thank you!
You see the same thing in France (I...Thank you!<br /><br />You see the same thing in France (I'm fairly sure in Great Britain as well, but now I'm doubting my memory) - when women took over dressmaking, tailors held onto court dressmaking. If I recall correctly, that persisted at least to Garsault's time.Cassidyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03596345781746342408noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5848073453811666225.post-75048452300647991412016-02-26T14:14:36.401-05:002016-02-26T14:14:36.401-05:00Great research!
I wonder, what's the differen...Great research!<br /><br />I wonder, what's the difference between a male dressmaker and a male women's tailor?<br /><br />In countries with a German type guild tradition, male tailors never stopped making dresses for women. They continued to do it throughout the 18th century and into the 19th. Some even specialized in women's clothes only; e.g. J.S. Bernhardt (whose 1810-1811 books on pattern cutting contain the now famous "short stays") was a women's tailor. (Swedish fashion historian Pernilla Rasmussen has written about this, including an article in English in the anthology "Fashionable Encounters".) For another example, I happen to have a book about Swedish coronation clothes, and each of the 19th century Swedish queens' coronation gowns was made by a Swedish male tailor. I think it's possible that tailors in the German tradition continued to sew high-status gowns to some degree throughout the 19th century; female dressmakers were only just emerging as a profession at the beginning of the 19th century.Anna-Carinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05135589709144066670noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5848073453811666225.post-15851555320230497092016-02-26T13:59:08.236-05:002016-02-26T13:59:08.236-05:00Re: "he was the first male dressmaker to reac...Re: "he was the first male dressmaker to reach the top of the Parisian fashion world." - Louis Hippolyte Leroy was the marchande de mode for Napoleon and his family, and from the little research I've done, he achieved a position during the First Empire similar to Rose Bertin and Worth. Andrew Schroederhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03391968250249632273noreply@blogger.com